Aleppo to Kullam – a dream backwater journey


(Bengali) Kerala

Such dirty water is not seen in the canals of Calcutta, and what an awful smell with it. Gradually, the group of water hyacinths is lined up. I have never seen so many water hyacinths in my life. No one keeps track of where they are coming from and where they are going. However, this water hyacinth team is like the lifeblood of Kerala’s backwaters. We are now in Aleppo. The backwaters of Kerala’s backwaters, the last words of romance, an eternal nature lesson, the innumerable villages of waking dreams, a lazy journey right on the edge. Sometimes I want to go, to the woman who was washing the dishes on the bank; I feel like chatting with her, I feel like asking the fisherman on the boat “What fish did you catch in your net today? The school bell rang so loudly, it rang in our school too – maybe morning school is over! Yes, that’s right you can see them running. They were waving hands at me. I also started waiving my hand, looking at them – how happy they are.

Luckily I heard the advice of Supriya Dar. And that’s why we got up and sat on the official launch, hiding the interesting laziness of the houseboat. From Aleppo to Kullam, a total journey of eight hours. Some say it is the most beautiful waterway in the world, some say it is a pure Maya-wrapped pasture. The words government is usually associated with necessity and bare minimum and of course not luxury. The case was the same here too. Very simple seating arrangement on the top deck of the launch. The launch was full of people; Some were locals, and a group of tourists. Mostly foreign, in groups. Kerala is their favorite place.

The launch is moving forward. The water inside the city of Aleppo is quite dirty. And the square is very small. Numerous small canopies, gondolas and houseboats are floating in the water. The launch came down the narrow creek to Vembananda Lake. Its direct contact with the sea, so there is a lot of current in the water of Vembananda Lake. Row upon row of houseboats is busy. It is as if a poem is being composed day and night. The couple, who had come for honeymoon, looked at us through the window of the houseboat with shy eyes. They are buying fish from the fishermen at that distant boat. The sound of shouting a little farther away. Curious eye. Suddenly I saw the gentleman come out and sit on the porch of the houseboat. Two birds flew over their windows a moment ago, came back and sat down. The launch is moving with a moderate speed. It’s like a really like an illusion. Someone has left quite a lot of ducks in the water some distance away. They are playing in the water surrounded by nets. The sun is in the middle of the sky. The launch came and stopped in front of a small resort on a beautiful island like a picture in search of lunch. Some people tasted the food of Kerala. We cooked the rice with rice. This is a strange attempt to prove authentic Bengali. The journey begins again. With a little sleep in the eyes, I spent a sleepless afternoon. The coconut tree next door has fallen into the water. There were numerous coconuts in small trees. A little boy threw stones in the water. Splashing sound came. A man was fishing with a rod. The old lady of the house is returning home with a small boat and some shopping. Again, the school bell rang lound The classes were probably over.

The boys and girls started running towards the house. A little rain started. Although there is a shed on top of the launch, water seems to be coming from the side. We still did not move, we all are very careful. The speed of the launch slowed down. A bridge is in front. It went up from both sides. Moving on from the middle to the majestic movement. Suddenly the river overflows. The launch guide came and said it was Ashtamuri Lake. We are walking absolutely by the sea. Sometimes the sea peeks through the gaps in the sand hills. The smell is in the air. It’s raining. The waves are rising in the water. There is no way to describe the afternoon sky. A restaurant is almost floating in the water. The water hyacinths are still floating. I know how my head is reeling when I stood on the porch of the restaurant. Later I realized that those running water hyacinths had thrown us into the illusion of standing on the veranda of the restaurant.

It is getting dark. At Ashtamuri, we were then lined up with Chinese fishing nets. The sun in the sky was red. Diving in the lap of the sea, we reached Kollam after crossing a dream journey.

-Sudip Bhattacharya-



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